9/28/2023 0 Comments Atc guide rock and ice![]() This trick works best if you belay your second off the master point with a self-locking belay device (Reverso, ATC Guide, etc.). Switching off devices with your partner saves time by avoiding having to clip the second into the anchor. ![]() Moving Fast Means Climbing More: Alex Honnold’s Favorite Efficiency Tricks While you’re at it, also talk about how to deal with the topo-Do you want to switch it back and forth? Have one person keep it the whole time?-as well as the food and water (say, in a small pack). Pick a system that works and stick with it. Some people hand over all the gear at once on a long sling, while others prefer piecemeal. SystemizeĪgree upon a system for gear swapping. If you’re seconding at your max, it’s often more efficient to harness-clip the pro (and sort later) than to pump out as you fiddle with a racking system. Of course, like all good rules, this one is meant to be broken. Added bonus (if you prefer to lead with a gear sling): you don’t have to compromise on your gear sling’s length and style, significant if you’re of different statures. Then at the anchor, you need only deal with getting the remaining gear from the leader before setting off. When you’re following, carefully re-rack the pro as you clean. Have each climber carry her own gear sling. ![]() (Imagine NASCAR pit stops: each crew member knows what needs to happen and when.) Here are seven tricks for ramping up a lightning-fast, full-pro “pit crew” for your next multi-pitch, lead-swinging adventure.īig Walls, Big Storms: How to Endure… or Bail The goal is to have your team in synch, with both climbers working together to get the leader moving. When swinging leads on a multi-pitch route, the belay transitions are often the biggest time suck. But the thing about climbing quickly is that it’s not necessarily about the climbing-it’s more about doing everything else efficiently. Likewise, make good time and you’ll have more of it to deal with the unexpected: a snagged rope, cryptic route, or slow party ahead. One of alpinism’s best-known adages is “Speed is safety,” useful wisdom that reminds us the less time we spend on route, the less likely we are to run into thunderstorms, get benighted, or otherwise epic. Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members!
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